| It is recommended that you use a variable rotary | | | | Be very careful when working near exposed |
| buffer/polisher. Four ply buffing pads from Buff | | | | antennas, lines, horns, and as mentioned before, |
| and Shine or 3M Company are the easiest to use | | | | especially striping. Slow the speed down when |
| in corner and angled surfaces. You may also use | | | | buffing on stripes and use less pressure on the |
| foam pads if you find those preferable and easier | | | | buffer. Remove as much of the product as |
| to use for yourself. After the boat has been | | | | possible, then wipe residual by hand. It is also |
| thoroughly washed, properly tape off with a very | | | | recommended that you tape off areas, tops, |
| high quality masking tape, the striping, the rub | | | | exposed seats, etc. that may be in the path of |
| strip that runs along the hull of the boat, and any | | | | flying compound. You can do this using towels, old |
| areas you feel may get hit by the polisher and | | | | sheets. There are also different areas you may |
| make a blemish or mark. It actually saves time | | | | want to cover up like the dash if it's an exposed |
| and you'll be happy that you did it. It takes a few | | | | top boat. It just saves time on cleanup later. |
| extra minutes but it is the proper way to buff a | | | | Optional Second Step |
| boat. | | | | If you follow the buffing step with Blue Magnum |
| To begin the buffing on a cool clean surface, lay | | | | Carnuba from Monsters, you will achieve a brilliant |
| down a strip of compound and run buffer at a | | | | reflective shine and long lasting protection. In the |
| fairly high rate of speed between (1800 to 2500 | | | | buffing process an optional second step is to add |
| rpm) to break the abrasives down and get a | | | | Meguiar's #45 polish by hand or orbital polisher to |
| brilliant shine. As you finish the section that you | | | | the area just buffed. This will help feed the pores |
| are buffing, back off on the pressure as you | | | | of the gel coat and add an additional amount of |
| start to see the compound disappear. You'll get a | | | | gloss to the surface. With this you have to use |
| higher gloss when you perform this properly. | | | | the product as directed and do one section at a |
| Imagine a grid pattern as you buff the hull, side to | | | | time. It does not work well as a wax to just let it |
| side, then top to bottom. This helps to ensure | | | | sit on there, haze, and then try to remove it. It's |
| you don't miss a spot. To get the product to | | | | something that you put on and remove almost |
| work a little longer you can mist, distilled water | | | | immediately. As mentioned, it is an optional step |
| only, on the product itself as you're buffing. It will | | | | to use in this process. This also is a product that |
| work a little bit longer and you can actually a little | | | | you'll want to keep away from the anti-skid |
| more gloss out of it. It will make the abrasives in | | | | portions of the boat, usually the side railings or the |
| it work just a touch longer. You can get some | | | | top deck where the anti-skid is mostly found. It |
| really nice results by doing this. | | | | just does not work well with anti-skid. |