| Typically fiberglass boat bottoms after several | | | | are using their fast drying Copper Teflon. |
| years of use become scratched and gouged from | | | | |
| rocks, grounding, and flotsam. A one-inch scratch | | | | We are using a 3/16-nap "mohair" 9-in. roller for |
| can produce turbulence for 12 to 18 in. down your | | | | application. The hardened spots are brushed in |
| hull. Turbulence interrupts smooth flow producing | | | | with a high quality brush to help avoid brush |
| drag which need more power to over come. | | | | marks. It is important with urethanes not to |
| Your boat bottom may also have a few gel coat | | | | introduce air into the urethane during application as |
| patches where rock impact has flexed the | | | | it can leave bubbles in this quick drying finish. You |
| bottom creating weak spots that were repaired. | | | | can spray on the finish as you would car paint |
| But the gel coat used may not be flush with the | | | | with an air type or airless sprayer and a rather |
| bottom. | | | | fine tip. Now be sure to remove the masking |
| | | | | tape while the boat bottom paint is still wet. You |
| The techniques discussed here will help your | | | | don't want to glue it onto the bottom making it |
| application and results on both displacement | | | | hard to get off. |
| sailboats with keel and a canoe. The systems | | | | Using a rag with epoxy thinner on it we now go |
| employed can be applied to all fiberglass boat | | | | around the boat to wipe off any drips that made |
| bottoms and can be seen in video form at: | | | | it past our masking tapes. But the job is not over |
| (youtube address when found) | | | | yet. Once the first coat of bottom paint is dry. |
| The first step is to wet sand the bottom with a | | | | Which can be in just an hour or two we can |
| 60 to 100 grit 3M type sanding sponge. Purple or | | | | check the bottom for scratches we may have |
| green sponges work well. Wet sanding will remove | | | | missed. Once the bottom is sporting new paint |
| any burs of fiberglass along with any marine | | | | those scratches we missed will show up and can |
| growth or wax buildup that may be on the | | | | be dealt with. |
| bottom. Next, wipe the bottom with a damp rag | | | | Using the same glazing compound we can catch |
| to remove any dust which remains. | | | | those few imperfections that remain. Next a light |
| Using glazing compound you can now squeeze | | | | dry sanding can remove any small bubbles, brush |
| filler into these gouges and scratches. Because the | | | | marks, drips and new glazing overlap. You then |
| canoe bottom is riddled with scratches I just | | | | need to be very careful that you wipe off all of |
| squeeze some premixed glazing compound out of | | | | the dust particles as you are hoping this is your |
| the toothpaste type tube. I then pull a plastic | | | | last coat of bottom paint. |
| bondo blade over the hull flexing it to contour the | | | | Now, before you coat your entire bottom it is |
| boat bottom shape. For the keel or rudder of a | | | | important to "strip the boat bottom". Go over all |
| boat you can do the same thing but may be able | | | | your new repair areas with a brush and fresh |
| to just hit each of the divots and gouges | | | | bottom paint to give them some coverage. When |
| separately. | | | | you "strip the boat bottom" you are in effect |
| Because this glazing compound is soft it sands | | | | laying two coats over the repaired areas. The |
| quickly with the same sponges which can now be | | | | stripped areas will start to set up while you are |
| used dry. Don't worry about the soft nature of | | | | coating the bottom from stem to stern. When |
| this type of filler because the boat bottom paint | | | | you do your final coat you can get more |
| applied towards the end of the project will seal | | | | concealment over areas that may have been |
| the boat bottom and harden the surfaces. | | | | repaired earlier. Remove your masking tape, |
| The trick with this process is to repeat it two or | | | | check for drips and take steps to prevent dust |
| three times. Each time you will get closer and | | | | from blowing on to your finish before it sets up. |
| closer to the "faired hull" you are looking for. Once | | | | A note about support points. If you are using a |
| you have completed your final sanding be sure to | | | | product like the Smooth Sailing copper Teflon |
| rinse the hull off with a hose and wipe dry to | | | | product you can just touch in the support points |
| remove any remaining dust. Use blue or green | | | | as the boat is picked up by straps for your boat |
| tape to mask off your water line and your are | | | | launching. This product dries in minutes. If you are |
| ready to apply your boat bottom paint. | | | | using the Urethane as we did you will need to hold |
| For the canoe we have chosen a "non-stick" | | | | the boat with the straps for about an hour |
| anti-fouling urethane Teflon boat bottom paint | | | | before launching. |
| made by Smooth Sailing at For the keel boat we | | | | |